Jane Henderson
Jane Henderson is the Global President of Mintel’s Beauty & Personal Care Division. Jane helps the biggest global beauty brands grow their business by collaborating on product development, go-to-market strategy, and brand innovation.

Highlighted in 2010, the Mood Beauty trend tracks the evolution of France’s “cosmetique euphorisante” and the growing field of neurocosmetics. This new space is where beauty intersects with psychology and well-being, where brands formulate with ingredients that act on neurotransmitters to improve mood or introduce psychological benefits. The trend is also marked by destressing claims and a contemporary take on holistic therapies from the 70s and 80s. Finally, it relates to the use of “transforming” textures, temperatures or sound to inject a note of playfulness into beauty.

New actives that claim to stimulate beta-endorphins are emerging, such as Peruvian Inca inchi and Alpine skullcap. Euphoryl created by Laboratoires Serobiologiques is a blend of Inca Inchi oil and Brazilian pepper tree extract, rich in anti-depressant Omega 3 which is said to stimulate dopamine. In 2010 it appeared in Deborah’s EuphoricShine Lip Gloss and Ole Henriksen’s Truth Revealed Super Creme with SPF 15. In 2011, Physician’s Formula introduced Happy Booster Glow & Mood Boosting Powder with this active.

The trend, however, remains limited geographically, and even in France it is confined to niche brands such as Happy Cosmetics and Les Anges ont la Peau Douce. In Asia brands continue to innovate with jelly-like textures and gel-to-foam formats for skincare and hair colour.

Looking to 2012 and beyond, this trend is dependent on ingredient innovation and efficacy. Claims will need to be properly substantiated in order to be believable. Still, as we emerge from the recession, cosmetic products that help us balance our reaction to stress will have greater appeal.