Hybrid foundations that sit between BB creams and foundations are evolving, offering long-lasting coverage and weightless textures.
Make-up brands and manufacturers constantly look to achieve the best performing make-up results and often choose their ingredients, benefits and textures based on advanced technology. To respond to the growing demands for a ‘no make-up’ complexion, foundations need to combine high coverage, whilst also being weightless. YSL Fusion Ink Foundation is positioned with this in mind, as it is said to “feel like a feather and wear like an ink.”
To achieve this, YSL has gone high-tech with its new formulation. The product features NASA-inspired lipophilic actives, which were first created for capturing stellar dust particles in outer space. Fusion Ink harnesses this technology in a unique honeycomb structure, absorbing four times its weight in oil to keep skin matte.
Although BB and CC creams are still growing in popularity globally, weightless foundations with better coverage are becoming more appealing to consumers. In Germany, BB and CC creams now have higher penetration than foundation, with 34% of consumer saying that they use them, compared to 28% for foundation. In France, Italy and Spain however, foundation is still used by the majority of consumers.
The failure to overtake in the latter markets is explained by the fact that many people feel that coverage offered by BB creams is insufficient. In France, 22% of women think that BB and CC creams do not cover imperfections or blemishes as effectively as foundation, this climbs to 69% of Italian women and 74% of Spanish women.
Some skincare and make-up brands are responding to the issues in South Korea and are starting to launch BB creams with improved coverage. For example BCDation by Tony Moly combines all three products and is described as an air-light make-up based with the effects of BB cream, CC cream and foundation coverage.
Meanwhile, foundations are being launched with lighter textures and a growing number of brands are introducing water-based and liquid-to-powder that provide a ‘no-make-up’ feel.
L’Oreal Nude Magique Eau de Teint says it gives “undetectable coverage” and Lancôme Nude Miracle, a liquid-to-powder formula, claims to be 25 times lighter than traditional powder and contains special raw materials to absorb oil and provide a second skin ‘no make-up’ look.
Consumers are looking for products that will help them cover and correct imperfections while giving the impression of a bare and healthy complexion. In 2013, long-lasting, replaced UV protection as the most important claim for foundation launches, with 65% of products globally being launched with the claim, compared to 55% with UV protection. This was followed by brightening at 52%, moisturising at 50% and mattifying at 36%.
Overall, while BB creams are responding to criticisms and improving their skin coverage, foundations are moving towards lighter textures proving a ‘no-make up’ feel. Consumers are increasingly looking for long lasting formulations offering a natural finish and brands are developing a new generation of hybrid foundation that provide both the long lasting coverage of a foundation with the added benefits and light textures of BB and CC creams.
Elsewhere a similar trend is being seen in lip colour, with hybrid fluid lipsticks providing the long- lasting benefits of lipstick and the shine of gloss. Using terminology such as ink, tint and tattoo helps to convey the long-lasting benefits whilst also providing a ‘no make-up’ look.
