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As Beyond Beauty Paris 2010 opens its doors (13-15 September), latest research from Mintel Beauty Innovation reveals that the value of the facial skincare market in the five key European markets (France, Italy, Germany, UK and Spain) reached €6.1 billion in 2009 – up from €6 billion in 2008. And it is image conscious French women beating their European neighbours to first place, spending €2.2 billion in 2009 on facial skincare products, with nearly two thirds (62%) of French women using anti-wrinkle products.

However, wrinkles are not just an issue for French women. Italian women are not far behind, with 60% using anti-wrinkle products, followed by Spanish women (55%), the UK (51%) and Germany (49%). In its new research, Mintel reveals that the combined market total exceeded €6.1 billion in 2009 compared to €6.0 billion in 2008. Furthermore, the combined market value is expected to grow even further to exceed €6.5 billion by 2013.

Mintel’s research shows that French women lead the way in facial skincare purchases, with retail sales value exceeding €2.2 billion in 2009. They are closely followed by Germany with retail sales of €1.3 billion and Italy with almost €1.2 billion. The UK, in fourth place, experienced dynamic year on year growth thanks to continued high consumer spending amounting to over €1 billion (£854 million) in 2009. Meanwhile, it seems the economic crisis has hit Spain especially hard as the facial skincare market in Spain represents the lowest value in the study with total retail sales of €371 million.

Nica Lewis, Head Consultant Mintel Beauty Innovation, said:

“Facial skincare is clearly an important part of the beauty routine for French women and these figures confirm that. However, while the Spanish beauty market has put on dynamic growth in recent years, particularly with the advent of the Euro, it has struggled to maintain those growth rates as it matured, and the recession has put many of the beauty categories into reverse. Overall, the need to respond to a growing number of European women seeking to target signs of ageing has been at the heart of European product innovation and retail figures prove that it has been worth the investment. “

Meanwhile it seems fine lines and wrinkles are the top ageing concerns for women in all countries surveyed, with French and Spanish women (63%) coming top, compared to UK (62%) and Italy (59%). This compares to under half (47%) of German women who said that they were concerned with these aspects. However, although lines and wrinkles remain the biggest concern when it comes to ageing, many other aspects trouble European women. Today, almost half of British (49%), Spanish (47%) and French (46%) women are concerned about dark under-eye circles and sunken eyes. Sagging skin worries up to 43% of German women and stretch marks upset 45% of Italian women.

The resulting market changes have created a wave of NPD over 2009 with more and more scientific claims, citing stem cell technology, ever-lengthening peptide chains, sirtuins and DNA repair. France and Italy have been the most active countries in Europe in product launches in the face and neck sub-category, accounting for 81% each, followed by Germany and UK with 78%, and Spain with 68% in 2009. In contrast, Spain led the way in the Lip Care sub-category, accounting for 25% of NPD in the facial skincare sector, compared to Germany and UK with 12%, France with 9% and Italy with 7%.

” as we have previously predicted in our beauty trends, cosmetic science continues to capitalise on advances in biochemistry and medicine. This trend for Turbo Beauty features more quasi-medical results and “mix-it-yourself”solutions, such as at-home kits, cures and gadgets. In anti-ageing launches in 2010 there has been emphasis on gadgets and glycation”Nica concludes.

Mintel Beauty Innovation will be at Beyond Beauty Paris from 13-16 September at stand number I120.